About R&D Unique
Prices
Prices and descriptions listed here on this web site are current and subject to change without notice.
Ordering
You can order from us by mail, by phone, by fax, and soon, here on our web site. We accept Visa, MasterCard, and Discover. Our phone and fax numbers as well as our mailing address can be found at the bottom of every page on our web site.
Orders will be shipped promptly but, in the event of a problem or delay, we will let you know as quickly as possible.
Our Return Policy
Our products are made with careful attention to quality. If you order something from us and don't like it when it arrives, send it back in salable condition and ask for a refund. You'll get it - no questions asked. We want to make the stuff you like, buy, and use.
Don't be afraid to contact us if you should "mangle" a part! We know accidents happen, and will do all we can to help, including replacing the part for a small charge to cover shipping expenses. We want you to have fun building our kits. That's why we started making them, and that's why we hope you continue building them.
Resin
Parts cast in polyurethane resin are done by hand from a flexible rubber mold. We make every effort to produce high quality parts without flaws, but occasionally a flaw may find its way past our quality control process. Any "flash", or excess thin resin, can be removed by cutting it away with a sharp modeling knife. Pinholes, voids, and sinkmarks can be filled with your favorite body filler or super glue. If a part is slightly warped, you can carefully apply gently heat from a hair dryer and the part will soften allowing it to be straightened by hand. When it cools, it will hold the new shape.
Resin CANNOT be glued with regular styrene hobby cement. You must use super glue or epoxy. Resin pieces may be drilled or sanded at any speed without fear of melting, but they are more brittle than styrene plastic, and will sand or grind more quickly. ALWAYS WEAR A DUST MASK WHEN DRILLING, FILING, OR SANDING RESIN PARTS! And lastly, wash all resin parts well before painting to remove all traces of mold release.
White Metal or Pewter
These two materials are so similar that they can both legally be called pewter. Their primary component is tin. White metal will contain small trace amounts of lead, and will be slightly softer than pewter. Some think that pewter can be polished to a slightly "whiter" shine than white metal. Pewter parts are cast in rubber molds too, using a talcum powder as a parting agent. Normally, you can give them a quick wash, dry them, and paint them. We recommend a primer coat of any type you prefer to give a good base for any color you apply. You can also polish any pewter part to a very high chrome-like shine. If you want a "brushed" finish, fine steel wool works well. If you want a chrome appearance we suggest any good metal polish used for 1/1 scale automobile wheels that you can buy at your local auto parts store.
Photoetched Parts
The photoetched parts we sell are made of thin stainless steel mounted on a rubber-like backing sheet. To remove these parts from the backing, cut around them carefully with a sharp knife or scissors, and then soak the part and backing in lacquer thinner or similar solvent. After a few moments of soaking, you can peel the backing off easily. To fasten these delicate parts to your model, we suggest thinned white glue or clear model paint applied sparingly with a small brush to the back of each part.
Vacuum-formed Clear Parts
This clear material is used for windows, headlight covers, and the like. It can be handled just like styrene because it is. You will need to carefully trim the part from the surrounding material so it will fit into the place on your model. We provide two complete sets with our kits, so don't be afraid to practice a little first. Use a sharp hobby knife or scissors, and cut carefully.
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R&D Unique 12615 Renton Ave So., Seattle, WA 98178 USA
Phone (206) 772-2507 Fax (206) 772-0721 |
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